Pentax Astrophotography Software For Mac
Downloads: Update Software PENTAX PHOTO Browser 3 and PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory 3 Update for Macintosh Thank you for using PENTAX digital SLR camera. PENTAX wishes to announce the release of the Macintosh Updater for update the PENTAX PHOTO Browser 3 (Version 3.61) and PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory 3 (Version 3.61). For correct update, you are required to be installed previous version of PENTAX PHOTO Browser, PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory before hand on your PC.
Please download the Updater file on your PC first, and update it. Name PENTAX PHOTO Browser3 (Version 3.61), PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory3 Updater (Version 3.61) Macintosh Updater Registered name PBLV0361.zip (77,736Kbyte) System requirement OS: Mac OSX 10.3 or later CPU: Power PC G5 or later (Support: Dual CPU, Intel Core processer and Universal Binary) Memory: 1.0GB or more Free disk space: 250MB or more (500MB or more recommended) Release date 2008/11/26 Copy right RICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD.
Pentax Astrophotography Software For Mac Pro
How to Update. Please download and save the file into appropriate folder on your Hard disk. Double click the downloaded file. The Installer will start, following to the installation display. When the installation will be completed and the massage is displayed, click Finish.
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Update history 26, November 2008 PENTAX PHOTO Browser3 (Version3.61), PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory3 (Version 3.61) Macintosh Updater PENTAX PHOTO Browser3 Main changes from Version 3.52. Support for the K-m camera. Added below items in the Image data pane. Capturer Mode - Auto Picture Mode: Night Scene Portrait, SCN Mode: Stage Lighting, SCN Mode: Night Snap AF Mode - Auto: Single Mode, Auto: Continuous Mode.
Added Shadow Compensation in the Image date pane. Added lens data - smc PENTAX-DA17-70mmF4 ALIF SDM, smc PENTAX-DA L 18-55mmF3.5-5.6 AL, smc PENTAX-DA L 50-200mmF4-5.6ED, smc PENTAX-DA.55mmF1.4 SDM and smc PENTAX-DA.60-250mmF4 EDIF SDM Main changes from Version 3.60. Corrected the Folder tree pain performance - When click the upper deck top in Folder tree pane, the desk top on User folder was selected. PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory3 Main changes from Version 3.51. Support RAW data of K-m. Support for Shadow Compensation Main changes from Version 3.60. Corrected the Shadow Compensation performance: (1) Shadow Compensation did not effect to DNG file.
(2)When running PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory with Full Auto Processing and select a RAW file once again in the PENTAX PHOTO Browser, Shadow Compensation became invalid. For detail of instruction, please download the Operating Manual for PENTAX PHOTO Browser 3, PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory 3, 03, July, 2008 PENTAX PHOTO Browser3 (Version3.52). PENTAX PHOTO Laboratory3 (Version 3.51) Macintosh Updater PENTAX PHOTO Browser3 (Version3.52). Adjusted date printing position 28.
I have successfully managed to take several sessions of interval photography of the sunset and night sky. It took a bit to work out a higher ISO is a grainer picture.
Even with 'town' light pollution I can see the milky way in the pictures. See my upload in the welcome forum. For the night, I am experimenting with ISO 3200, F3.5, Lens 18mm and an interval of 20 secs every minute. I have both Shake Reduction and Noise Reduction on. From what I see in this forum, people advise to have these two off and do 'comparison' pictures with the lens cap on to get rid of 'noise'.
Isn't this what Noise Reduction does? As long as 'more than twice the exposure time fits into the interval time' there should be enough time for both these settings on. I do have another fairly basic question though. With Autofocus off, how do I focus the K-30 at night, pointing to a dark sky? So far, I've done nothing except switch the AF.S/C/MF to the MF setting. You should definitely turn SR off, as you will have no camera movements on a stable tripod.
Pentax Astrophotography Software For Mac Mac
With SR on and no movements to counter, your system might interpret the inevitable electrical noise in any circuit as a genuine signal and try to compensate for a movement that isn't there - making images more and not less blurred! Most of us turn Dark Frame Subtraction off because it is a time consuming process. We want many exposures and fewer dark frames. If you are setting out to shoot about a hundred images in a session, you will soon learn why. Likewise, if you plan to shoot star trails, you don't want 20 second gaps between your star trail images. Regarding focus, AF will probably not work with an 18mm lens at f/3.5. But seek out some of the brightest stars - or the Moon, if it is up - and use live view at the highest magnification (8X for a DA lens; 10X for a manual lens) to focus them manually and then leave the settings there, checking once in a while that nothing has accidentially changed over the course of time.
Before I got live view, I used a right angle view finder with 2X magnification which was also very helpful - and actually very good for my neck whenever I would focus on something higher up in the sky. Good to 'meet' another Pentax (K-30, even)-using astrophotographer. This was my first crack at the Milky Way with my K-30: And the second, which is my favourite so far (only a smallish pic; I had to retrieve it from 500px, and for some reason only a smaller file is there - bigger one will be on my computer): These are both single shots.
Tripod (obviously); aperture wide-open; manual focus, with some test shots to get the focus right; rule of 600 (600 divided by effective focal length of your lens is the longest exposure you can have before you get trailing of stars); noise reduction on; shake reduction off. These were with ISO of 3200, and a shorter exposure time than the maximum (8' for the first, and 10' for the second). Next time I try (once these damn bushfires finish and the air clears. That'll be a while) I'm going to increase the exposure time a little and try ISO 1600 instead.
And after that the plan will be for a wider-angle lens, both for the wider view, and for the longer exposure time it'll allow. I would recommend you follow Michael Shainblum on Google+ or Farcebook sic, and check out his great tutorials on post-processing for the Milky Way.
Peter, welcome. You're off to a good start. Focus: Use liveview and manually focus on a bright star, then zoom in by pressing the Info button to finetune focus. If there's no bright star where you want to take your picture you can focus using a different part of the sky. Noise Reduction: I use the long exposure NR when I'm taking only a few images. Turn off NR if you are taking a star trail or timelapse because you don't want gaps between photos. In-camera NR also drains the battery twice as fast.
Also turn off NR if you are 'stacking', a more advanced postprocessing routine. With stacking you take many photos of the same part of the sky, then combine them into a single image later. A stack of 32 images can use only 4 or 8 dark frames, so manually taking dark frames instead of waiting for in-camera NR on 32 photos saves time.
Having said all that, there are many different astrophotography approaches. In the end you might find that using in-camera NR works well for you. Hey guys, anyone gonna welcome me to the club?
With such a learning-curve, in two months, I've only scraped the surface on what kit and PP methods to use. Well, I'm glad I found this thread!! Please, if you'd be so kind indulge me with your latest results? Coincidentally I've processed two images on DSS. I'm going to read through the tutorial more slowly and try another image.
I'm still sifting through what bias and flats in DSS are.:S Anywho, I've got my K30 and out of my lenses I'm using a Sigma 50/1.4, a FA100/2.8Macro, a SMC M-85/2 (haven't tried it yet). I'd say I'm on target as my images look pretty bad but you guys are gonna lift my spirits and give me some hope by showing me how great I'll be (like you guys) in no time, right? Hey guys, anyone gonna welcome me to the club? With such a learning-curve, in two months, I've only scraped the surface on what kit and PP methods to use.
Well, I'm glad I found this thread!! Please, if you'd be so kind indulge me with your latest results? Coincidentally I've processed two images on DSS. I'm going to read through the tutorial more slowly and try another image. I'm still sifting through what bias and flats in DSS are.:S Anywho, I've got my K30 and out of my lenses I'm using a Sigma 50/1.4, a FA100/2.8Macro, a SMC M-85/2 (haven't tried it yet). I'd say I'm on target as my images look pretty bad but you guys are gonna lift my spirits and give me some hope by showing me how great I'll be (like you guys) in no time, right?
Welcome I can't find a stacking app for Mac, so I'm stuck with single exposures, and trying to improve them. What I tend to do it shoot off a couple of pictures on a high ISO to check the compositon and the focus as I find with the k-30 neither the viewfinder or the liveview mode allow me to easily check focus. I then wind back the ISO to 400 or less and shoot multiple images with anything from one to 10 second exposures (anything more and the stars usually begin to trail). I then use the program to stack the images together. This really helps cut down the noise and allows you to filter out the light pollution by taking both a flat field (pointat sky and defocus) and a dark image. I know the qulaity isn't great as I haven't had time to really clean up the image and there was a lot of light pollution, but this is about 80 stacked photos of 10 seconds each and shows the Andromeda galaxy as it might appear to the naked eye in good visibility.
Easyusetools for keygen tomtom updates for mac windows 10. So there is lot that can be done with clear skies, software, and patience!